Deiva Marina and the world's best campsite

We have spent the past three nights in Deiva Marina at a campsite which seems to be a well-kept Italian secret. Whereas all the previous sites we have stayed at have been host to mainly Dutch and French campers, this one was almost completely full of Italian families who have probably been spending their holidays there for generations. It is on a secluded spot of coastline and you have to drive through an old railway tunnel to get to it, so it is kept happily separate from the town's main beach, which is packed with grids of matching umbrellas and men in speedos. Our tent was perched on an outcrop with the turquoise waves lapping at the rocks below - bliss! Our first day was spent lazing on the beach and swimming in the beautiful clear ocean, then a quick cycle into town for supplies and a very successful steak and egg on ciabatta dinner. Then yesterday we took a train to Corniglia which is one of the Cinque Terre or 'five lands', and from where we walked along the coastal trail to Riomaggiore, stopping for a swim in the sea on the way. Between Manarola and Riomaggiore is the Via Dell'Amore, the 'lovers' road', where countless padlocks have been locked onto the railings and everywhere else by couples who have walked along it. Eavesdropping a guide in front of us, we gathered that this tradition comes from an old Italian movie about a 'bad boy' who falls in love with a rich girl and so they were kept apart by locks, or something to that effect. Despite having brought about 20 different padlocks of various colours and sizes on this trip, we didn't have a spare with us, so will have to return one day to leave our mark, but the view of the rocky outcrops along the mediterranean and the old towns with houses virtually piled on top of one another was unforgettable, so the Cinque Terre have certainly left theirs! Once in Riomaggiore, we hired some snorkelling gear and went out on a boat with about 6 other people to the most protected area along this bit of coast. It was wonderful to swim around and look at the shoals of little fish and down into the deep blue beyond. Eli did well for a first-time snorkeller, maybe one of these days I'll get him into some SCUBA gear! Back at the camp we managed to cool a few beers down to a vaguely acceptable temperature, and enjoyed them with gnocchi from the supermarket which was pretty divine. Today we bid Italy arrivederci and head for Monaco to show off our pimp ride amongst the Ferrari's and Lamborghini's!
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